Yetkha Bahal (येतखा बाहाल ) - A Hidden Gem

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Despite the hustle and bustle of overpopulated Kathmandu city, you will soon feel at peace once you’re inside Yetkha Bahal. A 'Bahal' is a traditional courtyard showcasing amazing Newa art and architecture. I like to refer to it as a living museum, where you can see ancient heritage alive. You will find many Bahals throughout different places in स्वनिग (Swaniga - the Kathmandu Valley). These ancient courtyards give a glimpse of what life was like in Swaniga hundreds or thousands of years ago. Personally, I find these Bahals very peaceful, unique, and among the most exotic sights in Kathmandu Valley. They are masterpieces that display the ancient civil engineering expertise of the Newars, developed over thousands of years.

The design, structure, and purpose of these Bahals captivate me. There is so much to learn and explore within a single courtyard. A Bahal serves as a common space for the community to mingle, host cultural events, and engage in social activities. It is an open area where the entire community can come together to celebrate special occasions or seek protection during natural calamities like earthquakes

Chaitya (Stupa), inside Yetkha Bahal

Sadly, many courtyards are deteriorating and in desperate need of restoration, today. Despite local outcry, the Nepal Department of Archaeology has shown little to no interest in protecting this unique heritage of Kathmandu Valley.

Bahal and Buddhism

Every Bahal would either have a (1) पंच बुद्ध (Pancha Buddha) known as चि बा: द्य (2) Chaitya (Stupa), or a (3) Temple with Buddhist Gods. In some Bahals, you may find all three of them and in some, one of those three. These objects clearly display strong faith and devotion of Newars, towards Buddhism.

Photo: Courtyard outside my house, Maru Tole, Kathmandu, Nov 2014

The two highlighted structures in the center are the shrine of Pancha Buddha and, to the left, the shrine of Goddess Kumari. Every morning and night, community members come to pay homage by lighting cotton oil lamps and offering fruits and flowers. Like my ancestors, I grew up playing in this Bahal. I can't recall a single day from my childhood that I didn't visit this courtyard. I vividly remember spending time with friends and family, celebrating festivals like Shivaratri and Shree Panchami, and participating in various activities in this small but wonderful courtyard.

Photo:  चि बा: द्य, Maru Khyokeba Bahal. Prazol Maharjan, 2014

How the name Yetkha – came into existence?  

There are stories and reasons behind everything associated with the Newars, from festivals and food to place names. Each has its own unique story, which I find very educational and interesting. The word "येतखा" (Yetkha) is made up of two words: "य़े:" (Yei) meaning Kathmandu, and "तख्खा" (Takha) meaning big in Nepal Bhasa. When this courtyard was built, it was the largest one in Kathmandu, hence the name "Yetkha Bahal." It likely remains the biggest courtyard in the entire Kathmandu Valley today.

Unmanaged wire and broken alley obstructing the beauty of Yetkha Bahal

Location and details inside Yetkha Bahal

This Bahal is a hidden gem just north of Kathmandu Durbar Square. The central Chaitya (stupa) in the courtyard represents a mini Swayambhu Maha Chaitya. Directly behind it is an ancient house built with ethnic Newari architecture, showcasing unique woodwork. The upper story is supported by four beautifully carved wooden struts in the form of Yakshas (attendants or deities) and features a vintage तिकी झ्या (Tiki Jhya - a traditional wooden window with multiple tiny carved holes). The building is guarded by two stone-carved lions. Experts believe this house dates back to the 12th or 13th centuries. Each Bahal has its own stories, mysteries, and fascinating history that teach you something.

Traditional houses built with Newa architecture are common throughout the Kathmandu Valley, especially within ancient courtyards. These houses showcase amazing Newa craftsmanship and highlight the durability of this architectural style, often surpassing that of newly built structures today.

The traditional house inside the Courtyard

Then and Now

Yetkha Bahal is within walking distance from my house, and I've visited many times since childhood. I often went there to see my Nini (father's sister) and my cousins. My heart always filled with joy in the courtyard. Sadly, today, this historical site is falling apart.

द्य छें - House of God. Located directly behind the Chaitya

Both the Chaitya and the traditional house located directly behind it are in urgent need of restoration. The drapery beneath the roof on the upper story has faded, and the exterior red bricks and beautiful windows are deteriorating. Similarly, the large white Chaitya in the middle has also lost its original charm. Many Bahals have been reduced to parking lots, a purpose they were never meant to serve.

Without necessary restorations, these historical sites may soon fall apart, depriving future generations of the chance to witness such amazing architecture. The heritage of Kathmandu Valley is the true essence of the country, giving Nepal a unique identity on the world stage. Unfortunately, the Nepalese Government has not allocated enough funds or appointed the right people to preserve this vital heritage.

 Newa heritage in the neighboring country vs. Nepal

What can we do to protect and preserve these Ancient Heritages?

The expertise required to build another Bahal no longer exists, and even if it did, there is no open space left in Kathmandu Valley for such construction. Local residents of Swaniga have consistently expressed their dissatisfaction with the government, feeling that the Nepal Department of Archaeology has shown little interest in preserving the Valley's precious heritage and ancient sites. Unlike the locals, they lack the same attachment and sense of connection to the heritage.

Ashma Shrestha, originally from Kathmandu but now residing in the States, remarks, "The Nepal Government should prioritize maintenance. In Europe, historical sites are preserved because they attract tourism. Big Ben in London was closed for maintenance for almost 2-3 months. It's sad how our historical sites are forgotten in Nepal."

The current authorities lack both attachment to and expertise in the ancient heritage of Kathmandu Valley. I strongly believe that natives of the valley should be appointed to oversee the Archaeology Department. Every temple, Chaityas, courtyards, monasteries, and ancient sites in Kathmandu Valley were built by Newars, the most sought-after artists in the country. Many of these artists are often invited to other nations to create similar art and architecture. Yet, our own government fails to recognize them in their own home. These heritages are the identity and soul of Nepal and have earned us recognition on the world stage.

I strongly believe that the Nepalese government should employ natives of Kathmandu Valley in the Archaeology Department to oversee the traditional heritage of the valley. Local Newars possess deeper knowledge and skills in ancient art and architecture than anyone else. I suggest the government form a special committee to hold frequent discussions and meetings with senior members of the community before beginning any restoration or new construction projects. Proper research should be conducted to assess whether new construction would negatively impact existing heritage. Additionally, the government should incorporate the study of ancient heritage of Nepal into the education curriculum. This would enable the new generation to bring contemporary approaches to preserving and protecting Nepal's ancient heritage.

Implementing the measures mentioned above would greatly contribute to preserving the heritage of the Kathmandu Valley. Additionally, the government should establish a system to reward and recognize individuals who are actively working to protect the valley's heritage. This would serve as an encouragement for others to follow suit and contribute to the preservation efforts. "Nepal Government shall plan things in such a way, so the locals from the neighborhood benefit from the money generated from tourists", as stated by Durgesh Man Singh (Former EU Ambassador). These should be preserved not just for money, anyone who visits such places, would bring them closer to the lifestyle, a culture that is gradually disappearing.

The heritage sites in Kathmandu Valley, built by Newars, belong to the entire nation and were constructed to serve the community across generations. It is our collective responsibility to preserve them, yet overpopulation and aggressive development pose threats. We must unite, hold ourselves and the government accountable, and work together to protect our cultural heritage for future generations.

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