Lown Hiti - The Ancient Water Technology, in the brink of extinction
Prazol Maharjan | Youtube: Prazol Vlogs | Follow: Instagram
The ancient heritage of Kathmandu Valley is captivating,
especially for a native like me. Growing up in a Newa household, I experienced
its rich culture, heritage, including centuries-old temples, vibrant festivals,
and traditional music. Among these treasures, Hiti (ल्वंह हिती
in Nepal Bhasa), the ancient stone spouts are particularly one of the most unique
heritages which have been rapidly disappearing.
With that said, I am not a Newa archaeologist or an expert
on Kathmandu Valley's history. However, I grew up hearing many stories and
experiencing the valley's heritage firsthand. I've also studied research by
renowned scholars and historians on the stone spouts of Kathmandu Valley. Based
on my experiences and their research, I aim to share some insights about the
unique stone spouts, known as Hiti and their history, which you may find
intriguing.
Regardless of the differences in religion, culture, and social norms, everybody depends on water. One cannot imagine life, without water. In the words of Anil Chitrakar, one of the 100 Global Leaders and social entrepreneur, “In the history of the world, there has been thousands of cities, that were designed, they were planned, they were built. Because they forgot how the water system worked the city became an archaeological site and it ultimately died as a city and the people then moved on to build other cities. “
Hiti is a unique and complex water management system that
has been passed down through generations in Newa (Newari) settlements for
thousands of years. This system, which manages groundwater, surface water, and
rainwater, has sustained the Kathmandu Valley's water supply to this day. Over
95% of these stone spouts are found in the Kathmandu Valley, making them a
crucial part of its tangible and intangible cultural heritage. These ancient
stone spouts are especially significant for the Newars, the original designers
and builders of this remarkable architecture. They exemplify the advanced
civilization of the Newa people from thousands of years ago.
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| Tusha Hiti, Sundari Chwok, Patan |
Tusha Hiti, built by King Siddhi Narsingh Malla between 1618
and 1666 A.D., showcases the exceptional stone carving skills of Newa artists.
It features Lord Vishnu with Goddess Lakshmi on his lap, carried by Garuda. The
King used its water for religious purposes. The step-well's walls are adorned
with three rows of 72 intricately carved stone sculptures.
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| Photo: Lord Vishnu with Goddess Lakshmi on his lap, carried by their mount Garuda, Tushsa Hiti, Patan. Thomas Alexander |
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| बाइस धारा, the 22 stone spouts, Balaju in B.S. 2018 |
Lown Hiti and it's significance in Newa Culture
The word "Hiti" originates from Nepal Bhasa, derived from the
combination of "हि"
(Hi) meaning blood and "ती"
(Ti) meaning drops, translating to "drops of blood." Similarly,
"Lown" (ल्वंह)
refers to stone in Nepal Bhasa. Together, 'Hi' and 'Ti', symbolize drops of blood flowing from the stone spout, emphasizing the
importance of water, akin to blood, essential for survival.
Our ancestors regarded the water from these stone spouts as invaluable,
stressing that it should not be wasted and must be accessible to everyone.
Hence, the term "Hiti" aptly describes this concept. Hiti is an
indigenous water management technology, using gravity to transport rainwater
stored during the rainy season through canals into the city, where it is
distributed via these remarkable stone fountains. This system has served the
cities in Kathmandu Valley for over a thousand years, exemplifying an ancient
and sustainable water distribution method.
Lown Hiti not only provides water but also serves as a shrine. Many Hitis
are surrounded by Hindu and Buddhist symbols, reflecting the spiritual beliefs
of the people in Kathmandu Valley. It's common to see people praying and
performing puja (worship) at the Hiti. Some stone spouts, like the Manga Hiti
in Patan, hold religious significance. For instance, the water from the right
side of the Manga Hiti is used for daily worship in the Krishna Temple, while
the water from the left side is used in a ritual to revive Hiranyakasyap during the Kartik Naach festival at Patan Durbar Square every year in the month
of Kartik.
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| Photo: Manga Hiti, Patan |
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Ancient Stone Spout, Patan, Ward No. 5 |
Design of Hiti, the Conduit
The iconography
of these remarkable stone spouts often depicts a combination of a crocodile and
an elephant, collectively known as Hiti Manga. Typically, the conduit or spout
is carved in the form of a Makara (मकर),
resembling a crocodile, symbolizing the carrier of Ganga, the goddess of water.
The mouth of the conduit typically represents the head of the crocodile.
Additionally, some Hiti Mangas feature five or six imaginary creatures carved
onto them, representing water spirits.
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| Makar, Conduit, head of the Stone Spout | Manga Hiti, Patan |
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| Photo: Narayan Hiti, Prawesh Rajkarnikar, 2015 |
The next morning, Prince Mandev went to Narayan Hiti and found a covered figure. Obeying his father's command, he executed the task, causing water to flow from the conduit. However, as he cleaned his sword, blood began to flow. Realizing he had killed his own father; legend says the Makar turned its trunk backward in horror. Thus, locals call this Hiti फस्वगु (backward) Hiti
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| Image portraying the incident. Artist unknown, found in facebook |
History
Stone drinking fountains were constructed under various kings in ancient and medieval Nepal. Lown Hiti's construction began during the Licchavi Period (450-750 AD), making it over 1400-1600 years old. One of the oldest Hitis in Kathmandu, located in Hadi Gaun and built by Bharavi, the grandson of Licchavi King Mandev, dates back to 550 AD. Many archaeologists believe that similar structures were built even earlier.
According to research by Riddhi Pradhan, during the early Licchavi period, Lown Hitis were constructed as a customary way to gain merit, as providing drinking water was considered a significant virtue. Manga Hiti at Mangal Bazaar, Patan, was built in 570 AD, with the date engraved on a Shilalekh (stone inscription) within the Hiti. Over time, more Hitis appeared throughout the valley.
Similarly, during the Malla period, numerous Hitis were constructed. It is
said that लुँ हिटी (Golden Spout), known
as Sundhara built in 1829 at Dharahara by Queen Lalit Tripura Sundari Devi and
Bhimsen Thapa, is the last Lown Hiti constructed in Kathmandu. Until 2008, over
200 households depended on water from this Golden Spout. However, due to
unmanaged and aggressive urbanization in the city's core areas, many Lown
Hitis, including the Golden Spout, have dried up.
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| Photo: लुँ हिटी (Golden Spout), Kathmandu. Bikkil Sthapit |
The primary sources of stone spouts are Rajkulos, channels constructed by the Malla Kings in the medieval period. These channels originate from the foothills of the Himalayas and provide water to spouts throughout the urban areas of Bhaktapur and Lalitpur. In 1678 A.D., King Jitamtira Malla built the Bhaktapur Rajkulo and established rules for its maintenance and operation. The precise sources of water for many Hitis remain unknown. Locals believe that many spouts in the Kathmandu Valley received water through Tantric (supernatural) power.
Decline of the Stone Water Spouts
After the country opened to the world in 1951, the Western water management system expanded into the Kathmandu Valley, leading to the neglect of the traditional Hitis. Over time, due to a lack of regulations, Hitis and ponds were encroached upon. In Patan, a municipality building was constructed on the site of Paleswan Pukhu, reducing its size, while another pond was converted into a bus station. Several schools were built over ponds in different parts of the Kathmandu Valley. Kathmandu's large Lainchaur Pokhari was partly taken over for the Nepal Scouts building. Today, these ponds have become prime real estate for land mafias. A recent example is the Chhaya Center, a shopping complex in Thamel, unlawfully constructed on the sacred historical Paleswan Pukhu (Lotus Pond), which belonged to the Guthi, impacting the culture and heritage of the Newars. Locals had performed various sacred daily activities at this pond since the Malla period, believing it was created through Tantric rituals. They would fetch water from the pond to offer at the nearest temple and conduct various other sacred activities there.
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| Somewhere in Madhyapur Thimi, a structure being built on top of the ancient stone spout |
Hitis faced a similar fate, as their water sources were damaged or their
connections interrupted due to aggressive construction of houses, shopping
complexes, high-rise buildings, and underground pipes. Many offices and roads
were built directly over Hitis. The government's policy to centralize Guthi
system management under Nepal Guthi Sansthan had a detrimental impact on
Kathmandu Valley's magnificent heritage.
Hitis were neglected and allowed to become polluted. Necessary repairs and
restorations were neglected, causing them to dry up and become contaminated
with chemicals and bacteria. Today, most Hitis lack water supply due to
aggressive and unnecessary development projects initiated in Kathmandu Valley,
particularly since the monarchy ended. Throughout Kathmandu Valley, numerous
stone fountains like these were buried and vandalized due to aggressive road
expansion plans and construction of high-rise shopping complexes.
Here's an incident that recently unfolded at नरदेय्
(known as Hadi Gaun today), once a prosperous town during the Licchhavi period.
A local heritage activist witnessed the destruction of पन्च हिती
(five stone spouts) by a contractor claiming to renovate them. Reportedly, the
Tourism Department of KMC initiated the renovation without consulting local
ward officials and entrusted the project directly to the contractor. Ignoring
the historical significance, the contractor used a bulldozer to demolish all
five stone spouts and their surrounding wall. In a tragic turn, one and half centuries-old
stone spouts and their architectural heritage were lost in a matter of moments.
Despite the outcry from local ancient heritage activists, I believe the Nepal Department of Archaeology isn't adequately preserving Kathmandu Valley's ancient and unique heritage. If such architecture existed in Western and European countries, it would be treated as a priceless treasure. Unfortunately, in Nepal, the government often prioritizes modern buildings and roads over preserving ancient sites and heritage. Although Nepal's current laws classify damaging or stealing ancient heritage as a crime, the government has not taken action against these destructive activities.
Bringing Hiti Back to Life
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| Photo: Water Jars, kept in line waiting for their turn to get filled. Maru Hiti, Kathmandu. Alok Siddhi Tuladhar |
During excavation for a house foundation in Om Bahal, an ancient stone spout was unearthed. Despite being buried for centuries, it was remarkable to find water still flowing from this Hiti. This discovery strongly suggests that there could be numerous other buried Hitis like this scattered throughout the Kathmandu Valley.
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| Photo: Ancient Lwon Hiti, found while digging for the foundation of the house in Om Bahal |
I feel fortunate to have grown up witnessing and enjoying the ancient stone spouts from my childhood, thanks to my ancestors. However, future generations may not have the same chance. They could lose out on a vital part of Newa Civilization: the Hiti. With government plans to accommodate millions more people in the Kathmandu Valley, there will be increased demand for housing, complexes, and infrastructure. Sadly, this growth threatens to compromise the precious ancient heritage of the Kathmandu Valley.
If we are to preserve these precious heritages, it will
demand collective effort from every individual who cherishes Nepal and values
its distinct culture and festivals. Particularly, local residents with
expertise in stone spouts must step forward and voice their concerns to local
ward officials and the Nepal Department of Archaeology, before it is too late. I
urge the Nepalese government and the responsible authorities at the Nepal
Department of Archaeology to appoint the locals, the true experts in this
field.
According to a two-year survey by the Kathmandu Valley Water
Supply Management Board, there are 573 Hitis in Kathmandu, Bhaktapur, and
Lalitpur (Patan). Among them, 479 have been located. Unfortunately, out of 94
stone fountains, 52 have been destroyed and 42 have disappeared under unclear
circumstances. Of the 479 stone fountains found, only 169 still have water
supply, leaving 310 without any. According to a publication from the Water
Department Board, currently, only 35.7% of Lwon Hitis in the Kathmandu Valley
have continuous water flow.
Finally, I would like to conclude by expressing my gratitude to Mr. Prakash
Man Sakwo a historian and scholar from Sakwo, Mr. Pramesh Shrestha, and several
others who have contributed directly and indirectly to this article. If you
found this piece intriguing, I invite you to follow my blog and show your
support by sharing this post.
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